The 'Great Mosque of Guangzhou' is also known as Huaisheng Mosque which means 'Remember the Sage' (A Memorial Mosque to the Holy Prophet) and is also popularly called the 'Guangta Mosque'
which translates as 'The Beacon Tower Mosque'. Huaisheng Mosque is
located on Guantgta Road (Light Pagoda Road) which runs eastwards off
Renmin Zhonglu.
Prior to 500 CE and hence before the
establishment of Islam, Arab seafarers had established trade relations
with the "Middle Kingdom" (China). Arab ships bravely set off from Basra at the tip of the Arabian Gulf and also from the town of Qays (Siraf) in the Persian Gulf. They sailed the Indian Ocean passing Sarandip (Sri Lanka)
and navigated their way through the Straits of Malacca which were
between the Sumatran and Malaysian peninsulas en route to the South
China Sea. They established trading posts on the southeastern coastal
ports of Quanzhou and Guangzhou. Some Arabs had already settled in China
and probably embraced Islam when the first Muslim deputation arrived,
as their families and friends back in Arabia, had already embraced
Islam during the Holy Prophet's revelation (610-32).
Guangzhou is called Khanfu by
the Arabs who later set up a Muslim quarter which became a centre of
commerce. Guangzhou's superior geographical position made it play an
important role as the oldest trading and international port city in
China. Witnessing a series of historical events, China has become a
significant place in history and one of the fastest growing regions in
the world enjoying unprecedented prosperity.
Whilst an Islamic
state was founded by the Holy Prophet Muhammad, China was enduring a
period of unification and defence. Early Chinese annals mentioned
Muslim Arabs and called their kingdom al-Madinah (of Arabia). Islam in
Chinese is called "Yisilan Jiao" (meaning "Pure Religion"). A Chinese official once described Makkah as being the birthplace of Buddha Ma-hia-wu (i.e. Holy Prophet Muhammad).
There
are several historical versions relating to the advent of Islam in
China. Some records claim Muslims first arrived in China in two groups
within as many months from al-Habasha Abyssinia (Ethiopia).
Ethiopia
was the land where some early Muslims first fled in fear from the
persecution of the Quraysh tribe in Makkah. Among that group of refugees
were one of Prophet Muhammad's daughters Ruqayya, her husband Uthman
ibn Affan, S'ad Ibn Abi Waqqas and many other prominent Sahabah
(Companions) who migrated on the advice of the Holy Prophet. They were
successfully granted political asylum by al-Habashi King Atsmaha Negus
in the city of Axum (c.615 CE).
However, some Sahabah never
returned to Arabia. They may have traveled on in the hope of earning
their livelihood elsewhere and may have eventually reached China by
land or sea during the Sui Dynasty (581-618 CE). Some records relate
that S'ad Ibn Abi Waqqas and three other Sahabah sailed to China in
c.616 CE from Abyssinia (Ethiopia) with the backing of the king of
Abyssinia. Sa'd then returned to Arabia, bringing a copy of the Holy
Qur'an back to Guangzhou some 21 years later, which appropriately
coincides with the account of Liu Chih who wrote "The Life of the
Prophet" (12 vols).
One of the Sahabahs who lived in China
is believed to have died in c.635 CE and was buried in the western
urban part of Hami. His tomb is known as "Geys' Mazars" and is revered
by many in the surrounding region. It is in the northwestern autonomous
province of Xinjiang (Sinkiang) and about 400 miles east of the
latter's capital, Urumqi. Xinjiang is four times the size of Japan,
shares its international border with eight different nations and is home
to the largest indigenous group of Turkic-speaking Uyghurs. Hence, as
well as being the largest Islamised area of China, Xinjiang is also of
strategic importance geographically.
The Qur'an states in
unequivocal words that Muhammad was sent only as a Mercy from God to
all peoples (21:107), and in another verse, "We have not sent thee but as a (Messenger) to all Mankind"
(34:28). This universality of Islam facilitated its acceptance by
people from all races and nations and is amply demonstrated in China
where the indigenous population, of ethnic varieties of Chinese Muslims
today is greater than the population of many Arab countries including
that of Saudi Arabia.
The history of Huaisheng Mosque represents
centuries of Islamic culture dating right back to the mid-seventh
century during the T'ang Dynasty (618-907) - "the golden age of Chinese
history". It was in this period, eighteen years after the death of the
Holy Prophet, that Islam - the last of the three great monotheistic
religions - was first introduced to China by the third Caliph, Uthman
Ibn 'Affan (644-656 CE/23-35 AH ).
Uthman was one of the first to
embrace Islam and memorize the Holy Qu'ran. He possessed a mild and
gentle nature and he married Ruqayyah and following her death, Umm
Kulthum (both were daughters of the Holy Prophet). Consequently he was
given the epithet of 'Dhu-n-Nurayn' (the one with the two
lights). Uthman was highly praised for safeguarding the manuscripts of
the Qur'an against disputes by ordering its compilation from the
memories of the Companions and sending copies to the four corners of
the Islamic Empire.
Uthman sent a delegation to China led by Sa'd
Ibn Abi Waqqas (d. 674 CE/55 AH) who was a much loved maternal uncle
of the Prophet and one of the most famous Companions who converted to
Islam at the age of just seventeen. He was a veteran of all the battles
and one of the ten who it is reported that the Holy Prophet said were
assured a place in paradise.
In Madina, Sa'd, using his ability in architecture added an Iwan (an arched hall used by a Persian Emperor)
as a worship area. He later laid the foundation of what was to be the
first Mosque in China where early Islamic architecture forged a
relationship with Chinese architecture.
According to the ancient
historical records of the T'ang Dynasty, an emissary from the kingdom
of al-Madinah led by Sa'd Ibn Abi Waqqas and his deputation of Sahabah,
who sailed on a special envoy to China in c.650 CE, via the Indian
Ocean and the China Sea to the famous port of Guangzhou, thence traveled
overland to Chang'an (present day Xi'an) via what was later known as
the "Silk Route".
Sa'd and his deputation brought presents and
were warmly received at the royal court by the T'ang Emperor Kao-tsung,
(r. 650-683) in c.651 CE despite a recent plea of support against the
Arabs forwarded to the Emperor in that same year by Shah Peroz (the
ruler of Sassanids Persia). The latter was a son of Yazdegerd who,
along with the Byzantines already had based their embassies in China
over a decade earlier. Together they were the two great powers of the
west. A similar plea made to Emperor Tai Tsung (r.627-649) against the
simultaneous spread of Muslim forces was refused.
First news of
Islam had already reached the T'ang royal court during the reign of
Emperor Tai Tsung when he was informed by an embassy of the Sassanian
king of Persia, as well as the Byzantiums of the emergence of the
Islamic rule. Both sought protection from the might of China.
Nevertheless, the second year of Kao-tsung's reign marks the first
official visit by a Muslim embassador.
The emperor, after making
enquiries about Islam, gave general approval to the new religion which
he considered to be compatible with the teachings of Confucius. But he
felt that the five daily canonical prayers and a month of fasting were
requirements too severe for his taste and he did not convert. He
allowed Sa'd Ibn Abi Waqqas and his delegation freedom to propagate
their faith and expressed his admiration for Islam which consequently
gained a firm foothold in the country.
Sa'd later settled in
Guangzhou and built the Huaisheng Mosque which was an important event
in the history of Islam in China. It is reputedly the oldest surviving
mosque in the whole of China and is over 1300 years old. It survived
through several historical events which inevitably took place outside
its door step. This mosque still stands in excellent condition in
modern Guangzhou after repairs and restorations.
Its contemporary Da Qingzhen Si (Great Mosque) of Chang'an
(present day Xi'an) in Shaanxi Province was founded in c.742 CE. It is
the largest (12,000 sq metres) and the best early mosque in China and
it has been beautifully preserved as it expanded over the centuries.
The present layout was constructed by the Ming Dynasty in c.1392 CE, a
century before the fall of Granada, under its (ostensible) founder Hajj
Zheng He who has a stone tablet at the mosque in commemoration of his
generous support, which was provided by the grateful Emperor.
A
fine model of the Great Mosque with all its surrounding walls and the
magnificent, elegant appearance of its pavilions and courtyards can be
seen at the Hong Kong Museum placed gracefully besides the model of the
Huaisheng Mosque. I was fortunate to visit the real mosque last year
during Asr prayer, after which I met the Imam who showed me an old
handwritten Qur'an and presented me with a white cap.
Walking to
the prayer hall is like sleepwalking through an oriental oasis
confined in a city forbidden for the impure. A dragon symbol is engraved
at the footstep of the entrance opposite the prayer hall demonstrating
the meeting between Islam and the Chinese civilisation. All in all it
is a dazzling encounter of the architecture of Oriental China with that
of the indigenous fashionable taste of Harun ar-Rashid (147-194
AH/764-809 CE) of Baghdad - a newly founded city that was to become the
greatest between Constantinople and China, fifty years after the time
of Harun.
The Sheng-You Si (Mosque of the Holy Friend), also known as the Qingjing Si (Mosque of Purity) and Al-Sahabah Mosque
(Mosque of Companions), was built with pure granite in 1009 CE during
the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127). Its architectural design and
style was modeled on the Great Mosque of Damascus (709-15) in Syria
thus making the pair the oldest extant Mosques to survive (in original
form) into the twenty-first century.
Qingjing Mosque is located
at "Madinat al-Zaytun" (Quanzhou) or, in English, "City of Olives"
(Olive is a symbol of peace according to Arab/Muslim tradition) in
Fujian Province, where there are the Sacred Tombs of two Companions of
the Holy Prophet who accompanied Sa'd Ibn Abi Waqqas's envoy to China.
They are known to the locals by their Chinese names of "Sa-Ke-Zu and
Wu-Ku-Su" and Arabs from various countries come to pay homage.
Zhen-Jiao Si (Mosque of the True Religion), also known as Feng-Huang Si
(the Phoenix Mosque) in Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province, is believed to
date back from the Tang Dynasty. It has a multi-storied portal, serving
as a minaret and a platform for observing the moon. The Mosque has a
long history and it has been rebuilt and renovated on a number of
occasions over the centuries. It is much smaller than it used to be,
especially with the widening of the road in 1929, and it was partly
rebuilt in 1953.
The other ancient Mosque is located in the city
of Yangzhou in Jiangsu Province, once the busiest city of trade and
commerce during the Song Dynasty (960-1280). Xian-He Si (Mosque
of Immortal Crane) is the oldest and largest in the city and was built
in c.1275CE by Pu-ha-din, a Muslim preacher who was a
sixteenth-generation descendant of the Prophet Muhammad.
According
to Chinese Muslim historians, Sa'd Ibn Abi Waqqas died in Guangzhou
where he is believed to be buried. However Arab scholars differ, stating
that Sa'd died and was buried in Medina amongst other Companions. One
grave definitely exists, while the other is symbolic, God only knows
whether it is in China or Medina. The message of Islam took root
peacefully in China. The first envoy reached the southeast via the Zhu Jiang
(The Pearl River) and was later followed by contact via an overland
route from the northwest. Muslim communities are present over a wide
geographical area in China today, including some in the remote places
of Tibet, where I once met Tibetan Muslims in the middle of nowhere,
while on a trek.
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